Sunday, October 18, 2009

Riesling Roasted Pork with Vegetables

It has been quite some time since I have posted an update, but at long last - an addition to Stoy's Fare.

Yesterday while I was shopping for groceries at the local Giant Eagle - wretched place that it is - I saw Pork Butt was on sale. Now, I have never cooked a pork butt, and I have reservations about cooking pork in the first place: it is fatty and yet tends to dry out during cooking, too. Despite my reservations, I bought a nice-looking cut of pork butt. Fast forward to today...

How does one cook a pork butt? Well, pork butt needs to be cooked slowly - roasting it is! But - as I mention above - pork tends to dry out easily (in my experience), so instead of dry roasting the pork butt, a wet roast is the logical decision. What is wet roasting? Essentially, wet roasting is just like any other style of roasting except that you add liquid to the bottom of your roaster. I chose to use white wine, but you could use a fruit juice (apple or grape), stock, or even water. This liquid will help keep the meat moist, but it will also add flavor to the meat and the vegetables/roots that you add.

For this roast, I decided to use potatoes, carrots, celery, mushrooms, onions, and garlic. Potatoes and carrots are typical for most roasts because they will absorb flavor as they cook. Celery adds a nice flavor to roasts, and mushrooms have a nice, earthy flavor that compliments the sweeter flavor of the carrots and onions. And the garlic, well, you need garlic in almost everything because it is delicious.

Here is a list of ingredients with approximate amounts:

  • 1 2-3 pound Pork Butt (preferably with bone intact)
  • 1 bottle of Riesling white wine
  • 1 pound of carrots (approx. 4 carrots)
  • 1 heart of celery (approx. 6 celery stalks)
  • 2 medium onions
  • 1 8 oz. package of white button mushrooms
  • 4 medium potatoes (yukon gold or similar variety)
  • 1 bulb of garlic
  • kosher salt
  • coarsely ground black pepper
  • about 1 Tbsp. dried rosemary leaves
You will need to preheat your over to 350 degrees (Fahrenheit). You need a roaster with a lid or a roasting pan that you can cover with aluminum foil.

Rub the pork butt with the salt and black pepper. Allow it to sit in the roasting pan while you prepare the other ingredients. Wash the vegetables. Cut the potatoes into small-medium chunks (you may choose to peel them first or to leave the skin intact). Peel the carrots and cut into thirds or quarters depending on length and preference. Cut the celery into thirds or quarters as well. Place these vegetables around the pork butt in the pan. Peel the onions and cut each onion into quarters. Line these quarters along the sides of the pork butt. Then, peel the garlic. Cut each clove in half and place directly on the pork butt, covering as much of it as possible. (Place the extra cloves in the pan with the other vegetables.) If you use miniature button mushrooms, put them directly into the pan, but if you use larger button mushrooms, cut them in halves before adding to the pan. Press the rosemary into the pork butt/sprinkle it on top of the pork butt. After you have added all of the vegetables/roots, pour half of the bottle of wine into the pan. Cover the pan with aluminum foil or a lid. Put into the oven and allow to cook, covered, for one and a half to two hours. Then, uncover and allow to cook for another thirty minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven and allow to sit for about five minutes. Cut the pork butt into slices/pieces (cutting around the bone of course). Serve.

The other half of the bottle of Riesling is a great pairing with this dish, too.

Here is a picture of the dish, pre-cooking:


Another adventure in cooking comes to a close. (And, being single, it seems I will be eating pork butt and vegetables all week long.) Now, I return to my day job - pretending to be a scholarly English-type. Off to finish The English Patient. Bon appétit!

Monday, January 26, 2009

Italian Ribs or Garlic, Garlic Everywhere

I've returned with a cooking/recipe post at long last. Yesterday was Sunday (as I am sure most of you are well aware), and I rarely do anything other than reading or writing or studying for school. However, yesterday I cooked, too.

I had a rack of pork ribs in my freezer. They fell out of the freezer every time I opened the freezer, which is quite often as I like ice cubes in the various beverages I consume. When they fell out Friday, I decided to put them in the refrigerator to let them thaw, which they did. And so begins the journey that I have come to call "Italian Ribs or Garlic, Garlic Everywhere."

Ingredients:
1 rack of pork ribs
1 Tbsp of rosemary
1 Tbsp of peppercorns
kosher salt (about 4 Tbsp all together)
more pepper
1 tsp Cayenne Pepper
1 Tbsp Paprika
olive oil
1/4 cup white sugar
1 small can tomato paste
1 small onion, minced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups Pinot Noir (No - not red wine - PINOT NOIR! God help you if you use Merlot!)
2 Tbsp white vinegar

Utensils/tools:
medium saucepan
roasting pan
cutting board
chef's knife
blender
glaze brush
small spatula
measuring cups (wet and dry)
measuring spoons
mortal and pestle/spice grinder

First, you need to rinse the rack of ribs and pat it dry with some paper towels. After you have done that, set the ribs in the roasting pan, bone-side down. In a spice grinder or using a mortar and pestle, coarsely grind 1 Tbsp dried rosemary leaves and 1 Tbsp peppercorns. Add 1 Tbsp of kosher salt to this mixture, evenly mix it, and then apply, that is, rub it onto the ribs. Turn over the ribs do that the bone-side is up. Rub some kosher salt and some ground pepper on this side - it is not as essential that this side is seasoned because there is little meat on it. After you have done this, turn the ribs back over so that the bone-side is down again. Place the roasting pan (with the ribs in it) in the refrigerator. Let the ribs set for at least two hours.

In the meantime, it's time to get saucy (with the sauce)! In the medium saucepan, add some olive oil and place over medium-low heat. Mince the onion and garlic. (You may use a food processor for this if you do not feel your knife skills are up to the task or you do not want to suffer the ONION TEARS OF DEATH!) Ehem... Anyway - Add the onion and garlic to the oil. Saute until they are just beginning to brown, but DO NOT BURN THEM! Burnt onion and garlic = nasty crap. Reduce the heat to low. Add the tomato paste and mix in the onions and garlic. Add the Pinot Noir and stir. Finally, add the vinegar, cayenne pepper, paprika, 1 Tbsp of kosher salt, 1 Tbsp black pepper, and sugar. Stir. Cover and allow to simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and allow the sauce to sit for about 10 minutes uncovered. Pour the sauce into a blender and puree. Set the sauce aside.

NB: When sauteing garlic and onions (but especially garlic), I recommend you find a way to trap the smell/aroma in your kitchen, i.e. - close doors, turn on exhaust fan, etc. The smell of sauteing garlic likes to linger... everywhere. Clothes, furniture, towels... You name it, garlic will stenchify it.

When you are about ready to put your ribs into the oven, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. After the oven has reached the correct temperature, put the roasting pan with the ribs in it (bone-side down) into the oven. This method of cooking would be what is known as "roasting." The roasting pan is left uncovered, and you do NOT put any liquid of any sort into the pan. Ribs, rub, pan. That's it. Roast the ribs for about 3 hours. Check occasionally to make sure all is well - that is, nothing is burning or on fire. Check at fifteen minute intervals during the last hour of roasting to ensure that the ribs do not dry out.

Once 3 hours have passed (or 2 hours and however many minutes have passed), remove the roasting pan from the oven. Using the glaze brush, liberally cover the meat-side of the rack of ribs with the sauce/glaze/whatever you want to call that tomato-wine-garlic mixture of goodness. Return the pan to the oven and roast for 10 minutes, still at 300 degrees. After 10 minutes, remove from the oven, glaze again, and return to oven for 15 minutes at 300 degrees. After 15 minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Allow the ribs to set for about 5 minutes and then enjoy!

I would pair the ribs with the traditional accoutrement - garden salad, baked potato, and a glass of red wine (the remaining Pinot Noir from the bottle you opened for the sauce is a good choice).

Enjoy the ribs, but try to deal with the eau de garlic from the cooking. Thank God for Febreeze!

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Another Side of the Fare: NO SOUP FOR YOU!

As the title implies, this blog entry is not about soup . . . or any food at all for that matter. Today (tonight, this evening, etc.) marks the first entry that is unrelated to food entirely! BUT - I know what you're thinking to yourself as you intently read each word written on this virtual page: Good God! What could he possibly write about on this somewhat cold November night?

Well, the answer, my friends is literature (pronounced lit-terra-churrrrrr - and it helps if you have a glass of scotch in your hand whilst you say it). Why literature? As a graduate student in English, my life includes lots and lots of literature, so I usually have something quasi-valuable to say about it.

In particular, I feel as if I need to blog about my lack of understanding of the term "Post-Modern Literature;" however, for the sake of you the readers (or you the reader as I think perhaps one person reads this), I will not discuss this subject right now. My head would explode, which would be rather messy and a pain in the ass to clean up. Instead, I shall blog about (drum roll, please!) . . . Vladimir Nabokov's short story, "Gods."

I will not quote the story directly, but I will reluctantly paraphrase it - really, you ought to read it yourself, too. More or less, the story details an episode in the life of a man and his wife after their young son has just died. The narrator is the man, which could lead one to believe that the narrator is Nabokov (ergo the man is Nabokov), but I think the man is just "the man" and the narrator - neither of whom is Nabokov. The woman is distraught at the loss of her child as they travel to visit his grave, but the man is lost in his own thoughts. He creates stories and fables as if he would tell them to his son, yet he realizes (I think) that his son is really dead. However, despite his illusions, he creates an intriguing story about a hen that is used in a hot air balloon experiment. The hen lands and is found by a peasant, who knows it is a gift from the Virgin Mary. The hen later lays four golden eggs because, as the narrator implies we should realize, the rooster that is the sun impregnated her on the journey in the hot air balloon.

The imagery throughout the story is mind-boggling, but this scene in particular has always intrigued me. What is the symbolism here? Does the hen represent his wife and the "sun rooster" his stories? Regardless, the narrator/man/father/husband realizes that his stories have not cheered up his wife at all. He comments that he cannot overcome her anguish (I believe that might be a direct quote, for the record). However, he is incapable of weeping. He mourns the loss of his son, but the reader might be led to believe that his stories are a celebration of his son - whether dead or alive. Or perhaps his stories are his children?

Upon arriving at the grave, the wife visits it - alone. The man waits and the narrator (who is also the man) notes that there is no such thing as death! I cannot decide whether to take him literally or figuratively (in the sense of heaven and the ever-lasting life). After reading Invitation to a Beheading, I am beginning to think the latter. . . but I am still unsure.

"Gods" is one of Nabokov's shortest short stories, but it also is one of the deepest. I still find myself pondering its meaning while absent-mindedly staring at nothing in particular. I feel the despair of the wife, but I feel the joy of the man as well. It is a joy that is so alive and pervasive - even just in the writing - that you cannot help but to agree that there cannot be death in such a beautiful life.

Then again, I might just be out in left field . . . However, if you get a chance to read "Gods" by Nabokov, please do so. Then, let me know how you read it. If you and I (and all of us) really are gods, what does this mean to us?

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Scrambled Eggs Rethought

I know, I know . . . It has been a while since I have posted. However, consider this my "triumphant return" to the blogosphere for the time being.

Today's topic - scrambled eggs. Most people have eaten scrambled eggs at one point or another in their lifetimes, but it is surprising how few people have actually made the scrambled eggs themselves. Making eggs seems to be one of the easier aspects of kitchen navigation/cooking - for example, how many times have you heard someone measure their culinary capabilities by claiming, "Well, I can make eggs pretty good."? (And, grammatically speaking, it is "I can make eggs well," but who is counting?) Despite using "making eggs" as the easy end of the measuring tape of cooking skills, I think we all need to rethink making eggs.

Before I move into the scrambled eggs recipe I have devised, I need to address the various other ways we cook eggs (primarily for breakfast): frying - "sunny side up", "over easy," "over medium," and "over hard" or simply, "fried"; poaching - which involves boiling water, cracking an egg, and dropping it into the water, usually using a whirlpool effect to keep it from hitting bottom; and boiling - always in-shell (otherwise it is poaching) either completely cooked through - "hard boiled" or not quite so cooked through - "soft boiled." Microwaves should never be used in making eggs. Ever. Period.

Now let's move on to the main course of this post - scrambled eggs. While most people make scrambled eggs with eggs (obviously), milk/water, salt, and pepper, there are infinite combinations that one can create using the basic scrambled eggs mixture just listed. To expand your horizons with scrambled eggs, you need to look at the basic mixture as a glue of sorts - what holds the rest of your ingredients together. As we all know - or at least should know - eggs solidify as they cook, trapping any other ingredients in place (like fruit in Jell-o). You could use any ingredient from apples to zucchini to make your scrambled eggs more lively and tasty!

However, before you go into the kitchen and add apples, onions, basil, parsley, jalapeno peppers, and raspberries to your eggs, you need to think about how to mix and match your flavors, textures, and consistencies. I think it is quite clear that you do not want to mix watermelon and anchovies in your scrambled eggs for at least two reasons: 1) Watermelon is entirely too watery to ever allow your egg mixture to solidify and 2) Do you really think watermelon and anchovies would be good? I cannot imagine that it would be very good . . . Ehem . . . Moving on, it is important that you clear your mind of prejudices as to what you use in your scrambled eggs. Fruit in scrambled eggs is entirely possible with this caveat - do not use a fruit that has a high water content because you will never get the necessary amount of water to cook out of your mixture without burning your eggs! Tomatoes are an exception to this rule because, well, because they are tomatoes!

Now, when I say "mixture," I want to make it clear that I do not mean you add these ingredients to your egg mixture before you pour all of it into the frying pan. You always need to saute the ingredients - meats, vegetables, fruits, herbs, etc - before you add your egg mixture. As I said, you can use tomatoes, but you need to plan ahead if you want to use tomatoes. Many "cooks" will tell you to scoop out the center of the tomato before you saute it, and while, yes, this eliminates a lot of the water content of the fruit (yes, a tomato is a fruit), it also eliminates almost all of the flavor. The flavor of the tomato is actually in the gooey, slimy, gelatin-y part of the fruit that holds the seeds, which also hold some of the flavor themselves. While you want that "tomato taste" in your eggs, you do not want all of the water. To remedy this problem, you need to saute your tomatoes earlier than your other ingredients - onions, bacon, peppers, mushrooms, etc - by perhaps five minutes or so. The rest of the ingredients should be sauteed for about five minutes before you add the egg mixture. If you are using a meat in your scrambled eggs - bacon, sausage, or ham usually - you need to begin cooking that first. Vegetables and fruits take much less time to cook than meats and they usually cannot harm you if you eat them raw assuming you have washed them first of course and you are not buying vegetables/fruits grown outside of the U.S.A. (such as Mexico) where food safety is lax if not non-existent. I highly, highly, highly recommend that you avoid, at all costs, produce grown outside of the U.S.A. Support your local farmers and growers who must follow certain regulations in growing their crops so that you will not fall victim to bacteria such as salmonella such as those people who consumed certain peppers grown in Mexico using irrigation ditches containing raw sewage - human feces included! Anyway . . . Once your meat is on the way to being thoroughly cooked - please, never consume undercooked breakfast meats! - add the vegetables, fruits, and/or herbs to your saute pan and cook as desired. I prefer to caramelize the vegetables/fruits/herbs, but some people prefer crunchy. Once you have reached the point of doneness you want, add the usual scrambled egg mixture - beaten eggs, milk/water, salt and pepper to taste - to your pan. Do not start poking at your eggs right away with a spatula - let them alone for a minute. Once the egg mixture begins to solidify around the edges of the pan, gently slide a spatula between the eggs and the side of the pan to create a little bit of space so that your eggs do not stick to the side of the pan. Put a lid on your eggs and do not open it for about two minutes. Of course, I need to mention that you should never cook eggs at any heat more than medium-low or else you will scorch them - and no one likes scorched eggs! (I want to add here that eggs are, more often than not, overcooked by the home chef. No, you do not want to eat eggs raw; however, your eggs should still be moist!) Check your eggs. If they still look gooey, put the lid back on and wait another minute or so. At this point, break the eggs up in the pan. This way you will see if you need to cook any longer or if you need to turn your heat down. Once the eggs are about done, throw one a few pieces of cheese if you like, put the lid on for a few more seconds to melt the cheese, and then remove the scrambled eggs from the pan onto your plate. Finally, eat them!

Here is how I like to apply this method of scrambled eggs:

Ingredients - 3 eggs; milk; olive or canola oil; basil (if fresh - 2 Tbsp.; if dried - 1 Tbsp.); 2 small frying peppers (like cubanelles), seeded and chopped; 1/2 small onion, chopped; 2 tsp. freshly ground pepper; and 1 tsp. kosher salt.

Equipment - small/medium saute pan with lid; spatula (make sure it is heat proof or it will melt - plastic + eggs = garbage can); chef's knife; cutting board(s), never cut vegetables/fruits/herbs on the same board you cut meats on; whisk/fork with which to mix eggs; and mixing bowl or large cereal bowl in which to mix eggs.

Saute the peppers, onions, and basil in enough olive/canola oil to cover the bottom of the pan over medium-low heat to desired doneness. Beat eggs and add a little milk (about 1/8-1/4 cup). Add salt and pepper into mixture and incorporate thoroughly. Add egg mixture to the pan and cook as directed above, using a mild cheese such as "farmer's cheese" or brick cheese. Enjoy.

Get into that kitchen and make some eggs! You will not regret rethinking how to scramble eggs. Breakfast is suddenly interesting again. I hope my insights have helped you. Thanks for reading. Until next time, bon appetit!

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Come What Mayo

After the ridiculous failure of the habanero risotto/rice concoction that tasted like fire rice, I needed to make something slightly easier with less prep time and a more immediate result - noticeably good or bad.

I decided to try my hand at making mayonnaise using a recipe from Jamie Oliver's Cook with Jamie.

Ingredients:

1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup olive oil
1 lemon
salt
pepper

After whisking the egg yolk and mustard together in a mixing bowl, I added the vegetable oil a few drops at a time, fully incorporating it before adding more. Eventually, after using all of the vegetable oil, I began to add the olive oil. The mixture began to separate, which, using Oliver's recommendation, I fixed by adding a little hot water. Apparently this will not always work, but it did for me this time. Score: Stoy - 1, Separating Mayonnaise - 0.

After whisking in almost all of the olive oil (I left about a tablespoon or two out because I prefer my mayonnaise to be more creamy than oily), I squeezed the lemon juice into the mixture and then seasoned it. This was truly mayonnaise - move over, Hellman's!

Now, I will admit that I really do not care for the taste of olive oil (extra virgin olive oil especially). Apologies to Rachael Ray - EVOO is not my thing. The mayonnaise is really rich as a result of using the olive oil. I will probably stick with all vegetable oil or canola oil in the future. Also, if you like Miracle Whip, as I do, you might consider adding a tablespoon or two of sugar to your mayonnaise to sweeten it. I have no idea how long this homemade mayonnaise will keep in the refrigerator. I will update that timeframe once I figure it out.

WARNING: Consuming undercooked/raw egg may be potentially harmful to your health according to the FDA. However, it cannot be any more harmful than watching An Inconvenient Truth. Let me put it this way: If you eat raw cookie dough, you are exposing yourself to the same risk. (I know you all eat raw cookie dough - everyone does!)

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Habanero Peppers = HOT

Today, I decided to experiment in the kitchen with some basmati brown rice, bleu cheese, tomatoes, onions, habanero peppers, and basil. I was going to make a risotto; however, risotto requires a special type of rice - arborio. I, making the mistake of shopping without a specific list, bought the wrong type of rice, which brings me to the scoreboard: Habanero - 1, Stoy - 0. This error was probably the largest and most costly in the end. Risotto is a creamy rice dish that usually incorporates a cheese (planned bleu cheese in this case) and a vegetable or meat along with the standard onions and (sometimes) garlic. (Herbs are always a preference - you can add them or omit them as you choose.) My thoughts ("Silly Rabbit, Trix are for kids!" moment here) were that the creaminess of the risotto would balance the heat of the habanero, but since I was not making a risotto at this point, I thought that there was still a good chance the bleu cheese would balance the heat from the habanero.

I was wrong.

I brought and equal mixture of one-part white wine and one-part chicken stock to a boil before adding the rice, which simmered for about 40 minutes. Usually, the rice and all of the other ingredients would have been cooked together in a risotto, but, again, this dish was way beyond risotto at this point. I caramelized the onions and peppers in a pan before adding the tomatoes and basil. After the mixture was thoroughly caramelized, I added it to the rice, which was finished at this point, and mixed in the bleu cheese. I sampled it. Habanero - 2, Stoy - 0.

In a desperate attempt to cut the heat, I squeezed a whole lime into the mixture. Habanero - 3, Stoy - 0.

While this rice dish tastes great, the almost unbearable kick from the habanero that hits your palette after you have swallowed brings tears to your eyes. The moral of the story: Habaneros should be used sparingly - if at all. Dante, your Inferno has nothing on these little devils!

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Books About Cooking (Formerly "Cookbooks")

Before I delve into this entry, I need to mention that I work at a book store. (It is one of - if not the - largest bookstores in the United States, so take a guess as to which one I am referring.) From working at a book store, I know that there are shelves and shelves of books about cooking, which until recently were called "cookbooks." Of course there are the old standards: Martha Stewart, Julia Child, Betty Crocker (who is not a real person!), et al. However, there are now a plethora (yes, plethora) of others out there thanks to the advent of The Food Network and modern publishing/marketing in general. I have purchased two books about cooking recently - Cook with Jamie: My Guide to Making You a Better Cook by Jamie Oliver (the "Naked Chef") and Basics: The Foundations of Modern Cooking by Filip Verheyden. I am not going to give a full review of Cook with Jamie in this post because I want to do justice to how spectacular I think it is, but I have a few problems with Basics that I will share with all of you.

I do not pretend to be an expert chef, nor do I even presume to play one on television. I would classify myself as someone who has a basic understanding of how to cook and how to navigate the kitchen - an "intermediate" level if you will. Verheyden's book, Basics, is very basic - in its presentation. Explanations are relatively brief if Verheyden has been kind enough to include them at all in some cases. For example, Verheyden explains what a roux is, but he neglects to explain how one should go about creating it. The photographs in the book are beautifully done - if I were looking for food art to hang on a wall. Practicality is lacking. All of the pictures in the world of what a roux should look like are not going to make it any easier for me to actually make a roux. (In case you are wondering, a roux is a butter-flour mixture used to thicken sauces.) This book is virtually a compendium of food pornography for cooks to reference for definitions - not techniques/methods!

I purchased this book without looking through it first, which of course is a cardinal sin of book-buying, but I was short on time. Believing the "review" blurbs on the front of the book, I purchased it, thinking that it would be a valuable resource to me. As you can see, I have been greatly disappointed. Tomorrow, Basics returns to its shelf in the bookstore waiting for another unassuming cook/chef to purchase it under false pretenses. If you read this post, please do not make the same mistake that I did. Avoid Basics by Verheyden and look for another book about cooking to suit your needs. No one - chef, cook, or guru of microwave cuisine - needs a cookbook that functions better as a mini coffee table book, regardless of how nice the pictures are. (Then again, if you have coffee table books, you have the money to burn on books such as Basics.)

On a lighter note, I will write about Oliver's Cook with Jamie in my next post to share a glowing review of a great book about cooking.